Vintage goodness!!

[Chuck Williams]

Well lookie what I found!!!

Vintage hinges AND the brass spring clip!

[hobbybuilder01]

Do I see a communicator buckle in progress ?... as always you're the man

[Chuck Williams]

I don't know if I'll ever get around to it but when I saw these hinges and checked them to the original, I just had to jump on 'em!

When I was watching the show to look at the hinge is when I also noticed the little clip that holds the buckle closed.

A little size estimation compared to the hinge and there ya go!

[Etruscan Snood]

There is nothing like a spring in your step when coming unhinged!

[brianaward]

Chuck

I think we've discussed these unusual old hinges before, so I'm pleased you managed to find some. Did you make the clip yourself?

I want to build a communicator buckle as well, so I'm very interested to know how you get on with this project. I think there are a few challenges to sort out - like how to mount the knob, how to attach the belt to this buckle with the knob mounted behind it, adding text in the correct size and font, where to get the knob, do you make both halves the same size, how to bend a buckle with a hole in it, how to attach the hinges etc.

I can't see any sign of rivets on the original, so I guess the hinge was probably brazed or soldered. I can't tell from your photos what your hinge is made of, but it looks like it might be 'brass plated' steel rather than solid brass - which if correct would make it very hard to solder. Even if it is brass, soldering onto two plates at the same time keeping exact alignment will be another challenge. Perhaps epoxy glue might be the easy option? In stills from the TV programme, the hinge is attached to the back of the front and the back of the rear buckle - which means the hinge might need a bit of reshaping to get it to work.

I've given my own (potential) implementation of this project a bit of thought and it's currently stuck in the 'too difficult' pile, so I would be delighted if you manage to sort out the unknowns!

[Chuck Williams]

Hey Brian,

All excellent points.

It looked to me that the back buckle is notched to accomodate the hinge. I'm planning on doing that as well.
By playing with the parts I think the back piece will be cut about 1/16" or so smaller so the hinges and clip are hopefully not visible from the front.
I don't think you'll need to solder both sides of the hinge at the same time.

One of the challenges to me is adapting the belt attachments so you don't end up like the original with the 2" strap showing.
Whatever they used to contain/mount the knob pushed those points out quite a bit.
Playing with the strap attachment to the belt will be needed.

Lot's of things to think about and play with on this prop, that's for sure!!!
I know I've just scratched the surface.

The hinges are brass and, I'm happy to say, easily soldered on. Forgive my messy work, I just wanted to see how it would go as fast as I could!
The clip is "off the shelf" and is also brass.

Chuck...

[brianaward]

Chuck. Well done! Great to see a Robin belt as well. It's also good news that the hinges and clip are brass - there are so many "brass-plated" steel hinges and catches on the market that wouldn't solder. I still think you need to consider soldering both sides of the hinge at the same time though. No matter how careful you are, if you do one side at a time, you will re-melt the first solder joint when you do the second side.

I also think you may have to put a 90 degree bend in one side of the hinge, one buckle-width from the pivot point to cater for the thickness of the rear buckle - otherwise the two sides of the buckle will never close flush.

I did also wonder about the hinge stiffness. In the TV show Adam wanders around with the buckle open (kind of looks a bit rude at a glance!) - indicating it didn't swing freely. This was quite probably unintended, but it's an effect I would like to emulate.

Do you have any idea how the knob was mounted? I presume there must have been some sort of box affair on the back. Also, the knob should turn, which could be done but just soldering or rivetting in a post for it to turn on, but to do properly the knob needs to be fixed to a post that rotates. I think adding a real potentiometer (the bit that controls on your HiFi are mounted on) would probably make it all too deep.

I think the belt mounting was probably just a variation on the normal buckle - with the loop and hook mounted either side of the knob box. I seem to remember on the TV you can see gaps between the 3" belt and the buckle - indicating to me this was a standard build belt attached to the buckle. When I made my belt, I deliberately kept the 2" belt parts as short as possible with a view to using it with a communicator buckle when I get around to making one.

Please keep us posted how you get on.

Now you've inspired me, I need to find where to buy the hinges and catch in the UK!

[Chuck Williams]

Hey Brian,

No clue on what they did to mount the knob but it sounds like you've got it figured to me.

The hinges are fairly stiff moving, so the binding of the metal on metal is more than likely the culprit. If one got a little tweaked off center, that would also cause binding.

Unless you countersink the hinges and clip there will be a gap between the "buckles".
By using the right thickness of brass you can get a flush hinge when closed. See photos.
The red line shows the proposed notch for the hinge to sit in.

I'll probably start packaging up the hinges and clips at some point, but that's for another board!!

Chuck...